Leave it to Americans to corrupt something like sushi. What was once considered fast food in Japan -- hand-formed rice with raw fish -- now resembles American fast food: deep-fried, stuffed with avocado, and dunked in a special gravy. Many times there isn't even any fish in it. Perhaps that's why sashimi seems so evil, so morally reprehensible to those who prefer their land-dwelling meat flame-broiled and smothered in sauce. The Samurai Sushi Boat on Grand Avenue not only accepts this sinful treat, but fully embraces it. Of the three plate options, the Combination Sashimi gives you the most bang for your buck. Try eighteen pieces of six kinds of fish for $17.95. The multicolored palette of pink, cream, and white offers some of the freshest fish we've tasted this side of the bay. The salmon -- by far the best textured and easiest to swallow -- melts in your mouth, and complements the subtlety of red snapper and the meaty maguro tuna. And because K-pop pumps in the background and flat-screened monitors flash the latest ESPN highlights, repenting is not required.