Lately tandoori (Indian clay oven) joints have become almost as ubiquitous as neighborhood Chinese restaurants. But this inauspicious place in lower University Avenue's Little Bombay district continues to be tops in the game. Of course, the usual dishes (various curries and naans) are exceptionally tasty, but it's the tandoori (marinated meat smoked in a special oven) that stands out. Lamb, chicken or seafood, it's all wonderful, but it's Kabana's tandoori fish (usually red snapper) that will have you truly savoring this South Asian specialty. Fiery red and crispy on the outside, moist and white inside, it's pure perfection. The service can be leisurely, but the friendly, family-run vibe always makes for a pleasant dinner.