There are some people who think the way to seduce ice-cream lovers is to throw everything but the candy dish into the freezer -- sugarcoated nuts, fudge swirls, mocha-choca-latte-ya-yas. That's sort of like performing sexy by squeezing yourself into a satin bustier and caking on extra eyeshadow. Eric Shelton and Ruthie Planas, formerly of Aqua's pastry department, get that what really revs our engines are the little gestures, the did-you-or-didn't-you-just-do-that ones that make our breath stop. Thick Straus cream. A texture so smooth and velvety that you find yourself licking your spoon for the sake of licking. Evocative flavors from ingredients like rose geraniums, burnt caramel (a bitter kiss), and the deepest, darkest chocolate they can find. Eat it in private.