CREAM devotees be damned — Ramen Shop's black sesame ice cream sandwich, its signature dessert, is the best in the East Bay. Perfectly tempered every time it's served, the modest sammy manages to intrigue, mystify, and satisfy. The brown-sugar cookies are thin but incredibly moist, balanced by an inch and a half of rich black sesame ice cream that's neither too sugary nor too savory — striking that sweet/salty chord that makes it conceivable to consider consuming another, and another. The two sugar-coated jelly cubes that are served with it are a treat, too. Ramen Shop isn't trying to be authentically Japanese, but it couldn't be more authentically East Bay, because the chefs recognize that to do things exceptionally, they're probably going to have to do less. All of the delicious items on their limited menu, down to the cocktails, are prepared thoughtfully and with integrity. When execution tastes this good, what's there to disdain?