When you can't bear the thought of another breakfast of half-cooked, half-burnt hash browns dripping with grease, try driving out to Dean's Café in Pleasanton. Every day, Dean's boils a huge heap of potatoes and lets them dry overnight. Then the cooks force the cooked potatoes through a large-eyed ricer onto a hot griddle and let them brown. The resulting hash browns are fluffy, moist, crusty, and oil-free. It is perhaps the way hash browns were always meant to be.