Ah, the French really know how to live. Why stop with one happy hour, they say, when you can have two? Roland Passot's Left Bank Brasserie in "downtown" Pleasant Hill, with its high ceilings, wood and tile floors, and huge columns with caricatures á la Honoré Daumier, is a world apart from the mall it's situated in. And twice a day every day during les heures heureuses -- from 4 to 6 p.m. and again from 9 o'clock on -- they serve hearty Gallic bar food to the before-and-after-movie crowd. Along with $2.95 drink specials, you'll find crisp pommes frites, raw oysters, mussels Florentine, mini organic hamburgers, prawns sautéed in Pernod, and several more selections, from just $1.95 to $4.95 a plate. Fridays and Saturdays there's live jazz, too. So you can live it up like a Parisian, only a whole lot cheaper, and without that cumbersome social welfare system.