For how many decades have American restaurateurs sold us the fantasy of dining á la française? With their chateaubriand avec légumes and their zinc-topped bars, they've used Frenchitude as the primary marker of class. There's something about Jean-Paul and Kathleen Peluffo's restaurant, though, that would even make a French person recall her home country. It's not the decor -- the vine-wrapped ceilings and sponge-painted walls are pure Walnut Creek -- but more in the way Kathleen greets the customers with a European courtesy that feels natural, and in the simultaneously fussy and homey menu, a trick that many try but only the truly French can pull off. Chef Jean-Paul, whose work has taken him around the world, makes bistro food -- a little rustic, a little refined, with as many offcuts and unfamiliar kinds of seafood as the suburbs will let him get away with, and lots of creamy sauces.