Ken and Reyna run this tidy and clean doughnuttery, set in a nondescript building among a row of motels just north from the Highway 4 exit. The Cambodian couple rises at dawn to make old-fashioned cake-raised plain, glazed, or chocolate doughnuts, cinnamon twists, or rolls. And let's not forget the croissants. All of the treats are made right there in back, about fifteen feet from where you pay. Healthy they're not, but fresh? Always. The service is prompt and courteous, and the diverse clientele is interethnic, intergenerational, and intergendered, with an occasional intergalactic. Families come, too, with kids looking excitedly at the glass display case and adults leaning down for a look and a point. Reyna puts the orders in that magic white bag. When you buy a certain amount (which seems to vary) she holds up a bonus doughnut with the tongs, says, "For you!" and drops it in.