There are some who contend that delivery pizza is inherently a second-class food, the stuff of late-night desperation. They claim that it's meant to be consumed by crowds of middle-school children out of their minds from too much Mountain Dew, and not by connoisseurs. It's the culinary equivalent of a summer blockbuster, such critics maintain. Fortunately, Little Chicago thinks differently. (Don't be alarmed if you call the place and someone from West Coast Pizza answers -- they share a kitchen, which is strange, because West Coast is a prime example of the kind of delivery pizza that makes you want to give up food altogether.) Little Chicago turns out a delicious deep-dish Chicago-style pizza that rivals Zachary's. Savory stewed tomatoes top every pie, and a rich crust holds a powerful lot of whatever toppings you order. If you're feeling decadent, try bacon and red bell pepper. But beware the pepperoni -- the pizza comes so loaded down with it as to leave your extremities feeling oddly savory for days afterward.
What the Fork - August 17, 4:52 PM
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