She is gorgeous. She is meaty and juicy, with cheese dripping down her sides. She is, without a doubt, the all-American cheeseburger. And she is no finer than when prepared at the Townhouse in Emeryville. OK, so the Townhouse does her a little pricey -- $9.50 -- but let's consider the entire
Townhouse cheeseburger experience. For starters, she arrives with an overqualified support staff: a glorious pile of the best tasting garlic fries north of Gilroy, and a garnish complement so colorful and lively that it demands immediate description. There's a single slice of fresh red onion cut as thick as a nickel, three chips of emerald green pickle, a wedge of juicy red tomato, and a leaf of green crispy lettuce big enough to shade a small village. The patty is hand-prepared, seasoned into a cloud of salt 'n' pepper heaven, then grilled with expert care. The bun -- oh, the bun! -- is toasted to the golden color of sunlight at summer's end. The inaugural bite into this masterpiece stirs feelings of committing a crime against beauty, yet it is a crime worth its consequences in full. Yes, friends, she is at once the Townhouse cheeseburger, and she is also America. Gorgeous indeed.