Without adding foie gras, truffles, or some other such tomfoolery, Cafe Rouge grills up the swankiest burger in the area. It's all in the handling: Niman Ranch chuck ground fresh to just the right consistency -- and with the right amount of fat -- then patted and molded with the lightest of touches, so the meat doesn't compact into a gristly lump. With good meat, too, there's little fear of letting the cooks grill the burger just the way you like it. Then they slip the meat between two halves of a griddled, crusty bun, and oh! It's the juiciest burger ever, liable to soak the bun and your chin to boot. Couples have been known to finish their hamburgers and then disappear into the restroom for a half hour. Ten dollars for all that and some fries hardly seems like a splurge.