It's a bug's life at Tairwa' Knoll Farms in Brentwood, where insects are welcome, herbicides and pesticides are banned, and an inventive form of agricultural alchemy with roots in the biodynamics system of Austrian scientist and philosopher Rudolf Steiner results in voluptuous vegetables and sublime seasonal fare. Farmers Rick and Kristie Knoll chose the name Tairwa' out of respect for the soil. The word, they say, aligns with a philosophy that goes "beyond organic" to what they call organismal or ecological farming. The result is produce that grabs your tastebuds and sets them aquiver. The intense green and bulb garlic, plump figs, varietal artichokes, and assorted other produce are used at top East Bay restaurants including Chez Panisse, Dopo, Eccolo, and Oliveto. Look for the Knoll label at Monterey Market, 1550 Hopkins St., Berkeley.