Step into the charmless-looking Sun Hing and find yourself in front of the oddest collection of dried meats you've ever seen: yard-long strips of pork belly; brown and desiccated duck legs; pork rinds the size of your arm. And pairs of Chinese sausages (pork, duck liver, chicken) tied together with twine hang over the butcher's head. But if you let your nose and not your eyes be your guide, you'll be bathed in the succulent aroma of roast meat and star anise: It's the bank of red-lacquered ducks hanging in the window, proclaiming their succulence like the promise of good fortune. Cantonese butchers barbecue their ducks through an arduous and secret process involving blanching, marinating, drying, and roasting. Sun Hing's butchers roast out more of the fat under the skin than other stores, and coax the meat to soak up more of the five-spice flavor of the coating. And the small plastic cup of duck jus
they hand out with the meat is more intoxicating than a bottle of rice wine.
DAIMO Chinese Restaurant
Two locations: Richmond, 510-527-3888;
San Leandro, 510-351-8131