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Modeled after the neighborhood places founder Robert Volberg researched in New Orleans just before Katrina hit, Angeline’s feels small-parish authentic. Chef Brandon Dubea, a native of Baton Rouge, offers surprisingly manicured versions of dishes too often blown up into caricature. The jambalaya is restrained, and Dubea’s gumbo (thin, swampy-black from long-cooked roux, a weedy undercurrent of filé) is nice and homey. Order anything cornmeal-crusted — the kitchen’s sauté skills are solid.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:00 p.m. Mon.-Thu.; 11:30 a.m.-10:00 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; closed Sun.

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Price: $-$$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, cash, ATM/Debit

Attire: casual

Extra Info: some organic produce

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