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This cozy restaurant pretends to serve modest little plates of French- and Italian-inspired food. Like risotto balls (saffron-flavored and stuffed with braised veal). Or pizza (otherwise known as "asparagus and crescenza cheese flatbread with spring onions"). For a small-plates restaurant the portions are humongous, and so are the flavors. Except when it comes to the French fries. There are never enough French fries.

Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm-11 p.m.

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, cash

Extra Info: 75% organic, including poultry, wine, and biodynamic cheese; gives preference to local purveyors; incorporating more heritage foods. Participates in the Community Alliance for Family Farmers' "Buy Fresh, Buy Local" campaign.

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