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At Genny’s, the meats — especially the beef tri-tip — are infused with a satisfying smokiness, and the barbecue sauce is tasty (and smoky, too), if a bit on the sweet side. But it’s the side dishes that will keep you coming back: perfectly cooked collard greens with nice bit of heat; gingery candied yams; and soupy, savory Louisiana-style red beans and rice studded with chunks of tender pork shoulder.

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