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The dishes have offbeat, campy names like LadyBoy and TV Dinner, but don’t let the kitschy language distract you from the other charms of this quietly upscale breakfast-and-lunch place. The cooking shines with bold seasonings and refined technique, and the service navigates crisp and casual as few restaurants can. That mix of laidback and pristine is a fitting blend for the new West Berkeley, a traditionally scrappy neighborhood recently sprouting sleek condo lofts. Still, 900 Grayson’s burger, topped with chunky bacon and barbecue sauce, defies gentrification’s stereotypes.

Hours: Breakfast: 8:00-10:45 a.m. Mon.-Fri. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m. Sat. Brunch 8:00 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

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Price: $$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, cash

ParkingChoice: No Parking

Attire: Casual

Entertainment: none

Extra Info: organic produce, sustainably raised meats, and wild seafood whenever feasible

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