I know one or two highfalutin hostesses who serve only white wine
and Champagne at their holiday parties, so as to avoid any pesky red
stains on their tasteful white rugs and furniture. But for the rest of
us — especially those who have decorated our abodes in
wall-to-wall shades of burgundy and magenta, in gleeful anticipation of
the next sloshed glass—white wine is generally out of sight and
out of mind in winter months. After all, it’s far cozier to sip a
Merlot, Cab, or Syrah by the fire, after a day spent braving that
mid-to-low-50s chill.
Here’s the rub: with our likes and dislikes regarding white wines
happily hibernating, it can be quite jarring to encounter a January
heat wave, when we’re caught with nary a box of Chablis in our cellars.
In the spirit of being prepared for the next run of winter balminess,
we tasted four Chardonnays this week, with some surprising results.
Our favorite was the 2007 Morro Bay Vineyards California Chardonnay
($9.99), thanks to a delightfully complex aroma full of ripe fruit,
caramel, cinnamon, allspice, and clove. That clove stayed with us on
the palate, competing with fairly high acid, and was still present in
the Morro Bay’s spicy finish. A delicious value with lots going on
— from a winery that despite its deceptive brand name is actually
based just outside Lodi.
I’m always excited to try a Russian River Valley Chardonnay, since
that region of Sonoma has a cooler climate that often brings out the
best in the varietal. And at $19.99 a bottle, this week’s Russian River
pick was also an exciting foray into a higher price point. While the
2006 Esterlina Chardonnay did not have any qualities that screamed
“expensive,” it had a nice, slightly vegetal aroma and pleasant flavors
on the palate — although our Token Winemaker did complain that it
was a little too “hot,” or noticeably high-alcohol.
Still, we preferred the Esterlina over the other offering from a
Sonoma winery in this tasting: the 2007 Ravenswood Vintners Blend
California Chardonnay ($9.99). Ravenswood’s Zinfandels rarely
disappoint, but the Chardonnay was burdened by an unappealing muted
aroma, as well as discordant flavors on the palate and finish. Others
might appreciate the notes of clove and tropical fruit and the slight
sweetness here, but for now we’re sticking with the tried-and-true
Zin.
Finally, redeeming itself from a poor showing in our “big red”
tasting last November is the (oops) label from Chile’s Valle Central.
The winery came through with the nonvintage (oops) Bodacious Blonde
($11), an inventive blend of 86 percent Chardonnay and 14 percent white
Carmenère. The aroma was reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, with an
absence of fruit, and more Sauv Blanc–like qualities appeared in
the taste, which was full of melon with a touch of sweetness. Overall
this was a well-balanced wine with a lovely finish.
