.Best Burrito: A thing of beauty wrapped in foil

Picoso Taqueria

Who knew that Berkeley’s solidly underwhelming Epicurious Garden food court would end up busting out some of the tastiest burritos we’ve ever gorged on? Picoso twists up beauties with the usual heft but an unusually vivid palette of flavors. Take the shrimp burrito. Famously sketchy elsewhere, Picoso’s is supertasty: a squishy cylinder of beans, amber-colored rice, and shrimp with the delicately crisp-tender texture of fresh, suffused with the smoky burn of chipotle recado (spice rub). A meatless burrito — rajas in cream — contains a fierce knot of roasted poblano chile strips glazed with tangy crema (sour cream). The searing flavor is almost too intense: a green, vegetal taste with a deliciously bitter edge. Expect to pay a bit more than you would at, say, Cactus, but the quality is so high we’ve yet to feel ripped off. And don’t pass up bunuelitos, sheets of housemade dough as thin as paper towels, deep-fried and sanded with cinnamon sugar.

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