Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Mid-Week Menu: Oliveto Does Toast, Rockridge Gets an ‘Improvement Club,’ and Casa Cubana Rebrands as a Steakhouse

by Luke Tsai
Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 3:47 PM

OLIVETO
  • Oliveto
Welcome to the Mid-Week Menu, our roundup of East Bay food news.

1) Has it already been two or three years since Four Dollar Toast became the Bay Area’s phony food controversy du jour? Yet here we are in the year 2016, and the various permutations of artisanal toast that are available at East Bay restaurants and cafes remain as popular as ever — often for good reason. Oliveto’s downstairs cafe (5655 College Ave., Oakland) is the latest contender to jump into the fray. Last week the restaurant launched morning “toast service,” 8–11 a.m. daily. The initial features a choice between two different house-baked whole-grain breads — a plain pullman loaf and a seeded loaf with raisins — for $3 a slice. Once you add your choice of jams, butters, and savory spreads, the total price jumps up to the $4–$5 range.

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Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Eddie Huang Doesn't Care About the New Shit in Your City

The outspoken chef and TV personality dishes on his new memoir, gentrification, and the importance of real neighborhood restaurants.

by Luke Tsai
Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 6:56 AM

Eddie Huang. - EMERSON JACO
  • Emerson Jaco
  • Eddie Huang.

Eddie Huang had just finished telling me about how much he admires Oakland — for its low-key vibe, its hard-nosed working people, and his sense that the city was, in contrast to its more famous neighbor across the bay, “in the cut.”

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Thursday, June 2, 2016

Mid-Week Menu: Icey Cream Opens, Grand Lake Kitchen Expands, and Berkeley Gets a Poke Restaurant

by Luke Tsai
Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 3:22 PM

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Welcome to the Mid-Week Menu, our roundup of East Bay food news.

1) For more than a year, the residents of Oakland’s Adams Point neighborhood have been eying the hot-pink facade of Icey Cream (346 Grand Ave.) — the long-delayed ice cream parlor from the folks behind Oasis Kitchen, the shawarma joint next door. Icey finally opened for business this week and immediately takes the crown for the pinkest ice cream shop in The Town, even if it doesn’t wind up being the best.

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Tuesday, May 31, 2016

A Southeast Asian Kitchen Comes by Way of Ethiopia

by Luke Tsai
Tue, May 31, 2016 at 12:47 PM

A trio of dishes at Teni East Kitchen. - TENI EAST KITCHEN
  • Teni East Kitchen
  • A trio of dishes at Teni East Kitchen.
Tiyo Shibabaw got her start in the food biz back in 2007, when she helped Burma Superstar, the insanely popular Burmese restaurant in San Francisco’s Richmond district, expand its tea leaf salad empire to the East Bay — first to Alameda and then, later, to Oakland. For about ten years, she worked as a manager at those two restaurants, running the front of the house and even helping to create some new dishes.

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Monday, May 30, 2016

West Oakland Gets an East Coast-Style Italian Deli

by Luke Tsai
Mon, May 30, 2016 at 11:45 AM

STAY GOLD DELI
  • Stay Gold Deli
Many of us have been mourning the loss of Genova Delicatessen ever since the ninety-year-old Italian deli in Oakland’s Temescal neighborhood shut its doors earlier this spring. Now, there’s a new place to get your prosciutto-and-mozzarella fix, but at a somewhat unexpected location: in West Oakland’s San Pablo Avenue Corridor.

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Tuesday, May 24, 2016

A Puerto Rican Pop-Up Celebrates Grandma Food

by Luke Tsai
Tue, May 24, 2016 at 3:37 PM

5-25_wtf_illyana_courtesy.jpg
It didn’t take long for Illyana Maisonet to put her professional cooking career on hold: The East Bay resident said that two baking gigs at local restaurants with poor pay and working conditions were enough to convince her of that.

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Will the Bay Area's Next Big Food Trend Be ... ‘Alsatian Pizza’?

by Luke Tsai
Tue, May 24, 2016 at 12:56 PM

A flammekueche, or tarte flambée, in a traditional French wood-fire oven.
  • A flammekueche, or tarte flambée, in a traditional French wood-fire oven.
Jean-Luc Besset was adamant. “It’s not a pizza,” he told me. “It’s completely different.”

Besset and his wife, Anne, are the co-proprietors of a new East Bay food business specializing in flammekueche (pronounced something like “flahm-uh-kush”), a specialty of the Alsace region of eastern France. And you might forgive me for the mistake: After all, the crowdfunding campaign for the Bessets’ fledgling business, which they hope to turn into a full-on restaurant in the East Bay called La Flamme, is where I first read the phrase “Alsatian pizza.” It’s a kind of shorthand they’re using to explain the dish to Americans who might not be familiar with it, Besset explained.

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Thursday, May 19, 2016

Mid-Week Menu: LocoL Makes Its Oakland Debut

by Luke Tsai
Thu, May 19, 2016 at 4:08 PM

"Burgs" on the griddle. Via Instagram.
  • "Burgs" on the griddle. Via Instagram.
Welcome to the Mid-Week Menu, our roundup of East Bay food news.

1) Fast food lovers, take note: In side Scoop reports that LocoL, the high-profile fast-food collaboration from star chefs Roy Choi (the L.A. street food king) and the Bay Area’s Daniel Patterson, will open its first Bay Area location on Wednesday, May 25 — in the old Plum spot at 2214 Broadway in Uptown Oakland.

See also:
Fast Food Is Going LocoL


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Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Oakland’s Only Nigerian Restaurant Makes Way for a New Beer Garden

by Luke Tsai
Tue, May 17, 2016 at 4:18 PM

Via Facebook.
  • Via Facebook.
Paul Schneider says he’d been working toward opening his dream business for about fifteen years before he finally found the perfect spot — a building in Oakland’s Laurel district that he was able to buy for a surprisingly low price.

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Thursday, May 12, 2016

Mid-Week Menu: Tian Jin Dumplings No Longer Sells Dumplings, Josephine Temporarily Shuts Down, and Beer Bike Tours Come to Oakland

by Luke Tsai
Thu, May 12, 2016 at 12:51 PM

Sadly, the dumplings at Tian Jin Dumplings' are no longer available. - CHRIS DUFFEY/FILE PHOTO
  • Chris Duffey/File photo
  • Sadly, the dumplings at Tian Jin Dumplings' are no longer available.
Welcome to the Mid-Week Menu, our roundup of East Bay food news.

1) It saddens me to report that Tian Jin Dumplings (989 Franklin St., Ste. B, Oakland), purveyor of the best damn dumplings in the East Bay, is no longer selling its signature item. Following up on a letter from a distressed reader, I confirmed the news this morning. Owner Amy Liu said it was “too tiring” for her to keep making the dumplings — a sentiment I’m sympathetic to: She must have been making thousands of them each week, basically single-handedly.

See also:
The Dumpling of Champions

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