Last week, Jon Kosorek of Jon’s Street Eats, one of the OGs of the Bay Area gourmet food truck scene, launched a new brick-and-mortar lunch spot in Uptown Oakland. Marrow (325 19th St.) will focus on whole-animal cookery (what Kosorek calls “classic food the way it was supposed to be”), with Kosorek and his team breaking down and cooking their way through one responsibly sourced animal at a time.
First up: cow. Menu items available when What the Fork swung by for an early look last week included a corned beef Reuben, shoestring fries cooked in beef fat (served with house-made chipotle ketchup for dipping), a version of S.O.S. (creamed chipped beef on toast), and a quite tasty patty melt — chopped beef, caramelized onions, and Swiss cheese served on toasted marble rye — with an appealingly chewy texture, halfway between a burger and a Salisbury steak.